TEXTILE
NAPOLENA
2019-20 Autumn & Winter NAPOLENA
This does not mean a fabric for tailor-made garments, so what is an order fabric? We do not accept "normal" as a standard in any of our production processes such as yarn preparation, weaving, washing and finishing. We are never satisfied with the existent program of production; the fabric is "created" using exclusive methods, aiming to achieve perfection in quality and design. This season's "Napolena for 3rd generation" is offered in following qualities. It is no exaggeration to say that this fabric collection is created specially to Miyuki's own specification. Offers our customer a world-class selection of fabrics which are purely Made in Japan.
Schonherr loom
Traditional loom “Schonherr” is now becoming rare and can be described as a legend. Almost all fabrics for “Napolena for 3rd generation” are woven by this loom. The speed of this “Schonherr” loom is slower and productive efficiency is less than the innovative high speed loom. However this loom produces the original “taste” of bulky touch. Therefore for this collection, we venture to weave our fabrics by this weaving loom.
Schonherr
Stubbornly we continue to use “Natural soap.
“Natural soap” needs more skillful usage than synthetic detergent as it is a difficult substance. The reason why Miyuki continues to use such a time consuming “Natural soap” is of course we can obtain an excellent fabric handle. By using natural soap, fabric is finished closely and carefully. This fabric will gently swallow up a wearer with velvety and soft touch. Natural soap is the “absolute” substance to produce delicate handling for wool, which synthetic detergent never bring out. However when we use “natural soap” careful attention must be paid when for stirring as soap balls are easily made. Once fabric captures these soap balls, the fabric becomes a defective product and is not allowed to go the next finishing process. It is also more difficult to wash off than synthetic detergent so that abundant water is needed for the washing process. This process should be done slowly and repeated several times.
Distinguished clarity, famous water in Yokkaichi.
Good fabric is born from good water. Miyuki transferred our washing, finishing mill to Yokkaichi in Mie prefecture where there is one of the leading sources of “famous water” in Japan. The source of water is from Suzuka mountain range. Over a long period of time snow and rain are purified. We can obtain a rich amount of groundwater that has perfect whiteness and clarity. Miyuki’s original process which makes use of this famous water, bounty from Suzuka mountain range, produces fabric with durable but velvety, smooth handle. (By using of natural soap,2~3 times more water is used for rinsing than is used with synthetic detergent.)
“Chishaku irrigation channel” which runs near Yokkaichi mill, is one of the best 100 natural water sources in Japan.
Pure water is used after further gentle softening.
The water of Yokkaichi is perfectly good water as it is, but Miyuki adds one more process before use. By removing calcium and magnesium, this natural water becomes “soft water”. These mineral components are easily combined with soap and the washing effectiveness would be weakened. To maximally bring out the washing ability of soap and to act directly on fabrics, these mineral components are removed in advance. It is also desirable to remove these components as they become a cause of the outbreak of soap dregs.
Natural soap needs abundant water and much time to rinse the soap out of fabric. Nowadays, synthetic detergent is preferred as the foam is rapidly removed and it is convenient. However to bring out fabric rich handle, natural soap is much better than synthetic detergent. Miyuki continues to use natural soap which takes time for use, as we take fabric handle into account. In addition, at the rinsing process and without completely washing off we try to leave a subtle amount of oil, which wool hair originally has, as well as oil components from soap. To obtain an excellent wool handle, this subtle amount of oil component is quite important.
Rope Washer
SUITS & JACKETS
Miyuki's plain Napolena
To complete your wardrobe it is necessary to include a refined selection in this plain suiting fabric.
As this 4/4 twill fabric has a strong repellent force, these two fabrics (DNJ3045/DNJ3056) in navy and charcoal grey excel in tailoring performance and create a manly look. This high density fabric has a firm handle with a smooth surface and slight luster. This is Napolena plain.
WOOL100% (Equal to super 140's) 330g Made in Japan
Miyuki Napolena plain for 3rd generation
To complete your wardrobe it is necessary to include a refined selection in this plain suiting fabric.
260g light weight fabric enables possible use for 10 months wearing, only excepting high summer. This fabric has the characteristics of a soft and drapey handle which hangs beautifully.
DNJ3015, DNJ3026, DNJ3030 WOOL100% 260g made in Japan
Double cloth
Think about the tradition of double cloth.
Double cloth (double weaving structure for both warp and weft) used to be a big boom in Britain. In Japan, it was mainly introduced by European fabric merchants and because of its stately look and a warp rib structure, this fabric gained popularity in the 1950~1960's.
In recent years, Miyuki Keori has reproduced this double cloth as an important item of men's suiting fabric. It is not the 460-600g heavy fabric of those former days, it is refined in modern style with 345-360g weight.
WOOL100% 345/360g made in Japan
Shadow
Dress to intrigue in shadow designs.
This collection is presented as a series of stripes and checks in which shadows appear and disappear when seen from different angles.
The immediate impression is of a simple cloth but in fact shadow stripes appear- woven by layers of complicated weaving structures. Another is a shadow check based on the Miyuki House check design*1.
Black and navy are the ground colours which make shadow designs look most attractive and this collection supports your distinguished appearance.
Our wish is that young executives would wear this Napolena for 3rd generation.
*1 Miyuki House check; this check is expressed by the crossing of 3 main lines. This design is registered formally at the Scottish Tartans Society.
WOOL100% 260g made in Japan
